Agua Calientes: 1 day til Machu Picchu
Got on the train this morning to Agua Calientes and will go to Machu Picchu tomorrow. I am tired at this point and let the company that organized my Choquiquerao trek organize everything for me, including getting my ticket to Machu Picchu. It seems to be a good decision so far.
It´s interesting to be in a little town that has no cars, only the buses that shuttle tourists from the town up the hill to Machu Picchu and is only accessible by train. I like it.
The hostel tried to interest me in going to some hot springs, an orchid museum and some waterfalls today, but I already had a plan. My guide for Choquiquerao told me that the climb up to Putucusi, a mountain just outside of town, would offer me some of the most amazing views of Machu Picchu. It turns out he was right! … but I have to WARN anyone that decides to use my post as a guide for what to do in Agua Calientes. I would not recommend this climb for anyone who is not familiar with rock climbing. This is simply because I only think that through having climbed, did I realize how scared I was supposed to be on one section of the climb and also fully realize just how much I needed to hold onto the metal cable next to the slab.
The reward though was amazing. This was the first time that I have been in a “tourist” place in Peru and have been entirely alone. I only saw four people during my hike and had the peak all to myself for nearly two hours!
It was pretty amazing to just sit and relax for a bit and comtemplate the (amazing!) view infront of me!
Pretty excited for tomorrow!
Ms. Bruck
What it might have been like to go to Machu Picchu 50 years ago…. A trek to Choquiquerao.
I have been looking forward to this part of my time in Peru for quite awhile now. My new 9th grade Crew at Validus next year will probably add this trek to the list of reasons why I am more ready for their Wilderness Week experience than they are. My response to them will be that I hope their Wilderness Week uncovers an unknown desire to seek out more experiences such as my trek to Choquiquerao for themselves in the future.
Before coming to Peru many people asked me why I was doing a trek to some “lesser known” Incan ruin and not Machu Picchu. Frankly, with how over run the Inca trail trek to Machu Picchu has become, I could not think of anything worse. There is a limit of 200 people plus 300 porters and guides of the Inca trail everyday now. This limit is reached and would be far surpassed during the high season if not for the controls. I can only imagine the ecological effects of such huge numbers passing over this 108 km section of the Inca trail daily. For visitors going directly to Machu Picchu via train (as I will tomorrow), tickets are limited to 2500 people per day(as of July 15th this year). Yes, 2500… and people are finding that during the high season they need to book their ticket up to a week in advance! I am excited to get my chance to see this architectural marvel in the clouds, but when it comes to a trek or any backpacking experience, I much prefer the road less travelled, which for now, is Choquiquerao. As an added bonus, the trek meant that I got to see and experience two very different Incan sites and not just the one that is most photographed.
In contrast, there were perhaps 25-30 tourists total at Choquiquerao when I was there. This in itself, is a larger number than normal. They are starting to build control/ ticket stations along the path now and there is talk of a big company trying to build either a train up to the site like Machu Picchu or a gondola. I think that such a development would greatly take away from the appeal of the site as well as greatly affect the local economy, which for now in great part depends on providing ground support for treks.
It is estimated that just 25% of Choquiquerao has been uncovered and that it could end up being up to SIX times as big as Machu Picchu! In addition to the beautiful and interesting architecture already uncovered, we also saw many many Incan walls peeking out from under the jungle and 500 years of dirt. In some places we could see parts of buildings waiting to be uncovered. So cool! It really gave a sense of what Hiram Bingham might have felt when he first saw Machu Picchu hidden underneath its own layers of dirt and the jungle.
CHOQUIQUERAO TREK: DAY 1.
We started off our trek in the rain. The beginning was relatively flat for the first 11 kilometers or so and then we began the decent…. which I knew meant we would have a huge ascent on the return trip!
DAY 2:
We woke up at 5:30 at the start of the second day knowing that a full 1500 meters of elevation gain lay ahead of us just to get up to the campsite of Choquequirao…. we would end up doing a full 2000 meters by the time we went up to the site in the afternoon, scrambled down the back side to see the newly uncovered “llama terraces” (Amazing! Fantastic!) and back up to the main plaza again…. but first we had a 500 meter descent to the river below in order to reach the base of the mountains on the other side.
After some exploring of the main plaza, our guide took us down down down DOWN to the viewpoint of the “llama terraces,” which were only uncovered a couple of years ago. They were absolutely beautiful.
The white rock for the llama shapes is from the river over 1700 meters below!
DAY 3: MORE EXPLORING OF CHOQUIQUERAO AND BACK DOWN THE MOUNTAIN
We slept in until 7am on day 3. Our guide took us back up to the ruins for a morning of exploring before hiking back down to the bottom of the valley.
Day 4 we got up early and retraced our steps from the first day up up up hill. This time in the blazing sun. I was so happy to see our porters/ mule handlers at the top with water and lunch!
Day 5 involved waking up to this(!):
and hopping in the van back to Cuzco, stopping off at some hot springs along the way.
All in all an amazing trip within a trip! I am in Cuzco today and tomorrow I will go on my final excursion (to Machu Picchu) before heading back to the states. I hope everyone has had an amazing summer!
Ms. Bruck
How to get things done in Cuzco…
My day started out slowly, moving from store to store around the Plaza de Armas, trying to find a good price on a duffel bag to bring things back to New York in.
The boleto toristico that one has to buy to enter into virtually any of the site in the Cuzco area, also includes various museums in Cuzco. I spent much of the morning in the Contemporary Art Museum, the Regional History Museum (where I learned a lot about both Tupac Amaru and Garciloso de la Vega- very interesting!) and the Museum of the Incas, where it suddenly occured to me that I should be able to buy blueprint/ survey drawings of both Machu Picchu and Choquequirao somewhere to bring back to school. This simple seeming task led me on an adventure to not one, but EIGHT different offices through out the city! (Eight does not count the three different offices that I had to return to at least two times more after completing a step in the process). Wow!
Steps to obtaining blueprints/ survey drawings of archeological sites in Cuzco:
1. Find the correct office. This entails going to three different places based on information given at each subsequent place and returning to the 2nd one because it was correct, even though the person at the reception desk swore it was not.
2. Find the correct person in the correct office.
3. Explain why on earth a foreigner would want blueprints of the sites and not only to visit the sites themselves and take pictures to the correct person at the correct office.
4. Go to the internet cafe to write a formal letter of your request. Ask a 12 year old who is running the cafe to proofread my Spanish.
5. Return to the correct person in the correct office to have them put a special stamp on the letter. Be told that I will need to call him on August 9th to get the blueprints and really, to find out where he is because the location of his office might be moving…
6. Go to another office down small twisty roads with no name and hope that you are in the correct place.
7. Go to the information window at the payment office to make sure that you are in the correct place because the place you are in has a million tourists waiting in line to buy tickets to Machu Picchu (Did I explain myself correctly in Spanish that I wanted to buy plans for Machu Picchu and not buy ticket?)
8. After confirming you are in the correct place, jump the reservations line and go directly to the payment line.
9. Completely confuse the man behind the desk that you indeed want to pay for blueprints NOT a ticket to Machu Picchu and watch him crash the receipts computer as you confuse him beyond belief.
10. Pay for the blueprints and get a receipt.
11. Walk for 6 blocks before finding a copy machine to copy the receipt, which feels strange because everywhere else in the country it feels like you have passed a copy place every other step.
12. Realize that you have not actually given the solitation letter nor receipt for blueprints to anyone so the order is not actually going to be processed.
13. Go back to the payment office to figure out who and where exactly I need to deliver the letter and receipt to be processed. Arrive at 4:01 pm and beg to be let in to the nice guard.
14. Speak to a nice older gentleman who conceeds to help me after hours and then asks me for a copy of my passport.
15. Realize that my copy of my passport is fairly crumpled. Solicate the elderly mans help to copy my copy of my passport and escort me to the correct window back in the payment office.
16. Go to the final window in the payment office and deliver the letter, copy of the receipt and copy of my passport.
17. Hope that when I call on the 9th of August after my trek to Choquiquerao, the copies of the blueprints are waiting for me.
🙂 I actually find the entire situation incredibly humorous. The truth is, we have just as messy and complicated systems in the US to get certain things done and obtain certain documents. I know though, that I would not have been nearly as patient if I had not already done similar things in Tanzania when I was in the Peace Corps. And despite the multiple steps involved, everyone was so incredibly understanding and helpful. They really were happy that someone wanted to bring something home to use in teaching somewhere else. 🙂
Oh yes… and yesterday I went to most of the other Incan ruins just outside of Cuzco. Lots of interest there!
Tomorrow I take off for 5 days for my trek to Choquiquerao…. more to come after then!
Ms. Bruck
Cuzco: The Sacred Vally (Pisac, Ollantaytambo, Chinchero)
I arrived in Cuzco on Saturday, taking a bus from Puno that stopped at various historical sites along the way. One in particular, Raqchi (and the temple of Wiracocha), was interesting to me as it was the first well-defined Incan site I had spent any time at.
Wiracocha was the 8th Incan King. Just as interesting to me as the history of the ruins was the the construction. Take a look at the pictures below…. what pops out to you?
What is that shape that keep appearing over and over again? Any ideas as to why?
So now I am in Cuzco. Cuzco is the base from which I am going to explore Incan ruins in the Sacred Valley, do my 5 day trek to a lesser known lost Incan city of Choquiquerao and then finally, go to Machu Picchu.
I will be based out of Cuzco for almost 2 weeks! It feels nice to be in one place for awhile though.
After checking into my hotel on Saturday, I went to the tour company through which I had arranged my trek out to the Incan ruins of Choquiquerao to confirm my trip on the 4th. The trek will be for 5 days and I am really looking forward to it, as I will have the chance to see two major Incan ruins and not just Machu Pichu as most people do. I also arranged train tickets and entrance to Machu Pichu on the 10th-11th. Apparently, a lot has changed in Peru in the last three weeks with the new President and you cannot just show up at the archeological site and buy tickets anymore.
With that settled, I took up the opportunity to do a tour of the Sacred Valley on Sunday. We went to three major Incan ruins. Something to know about the Incas is that they were only really a dominating civilization for 90 years or so. They became powerful quickly and extended their reign from Ecuador into Chile by absorbing existing communities and also, improving upon technology that already existed.
The first major stop on our Sacred Valley tour was Pisac. The archaeological complex is a fantastic example of Incan terracing. Most of which were still in use until major flooding happened in the Sacred Valley in 2010.
The terraces are made up of four layers. On the bottom is rock, for drainage, then gravel, then sand and finally the top layer is humus, rich earth in which crops grow. What is fascinating to me is that underneath all of this, the Incas first built water irrigation channels, so there are actually little streams of water running underneath the terraces.
OLLANTAYTAMBO:
Our next stop was Ollantaytambo, a huge agricultural and economic center for the Incas in the Sacred Valley. What was interesting was that it was also an unfinished temple, on which the sun shone directly upon on the Summer solstice. These Pre-Colombian civilizations really are fascinating when you think of their ability to build things in just exactly the right place so it is hit by the light on one particular day of the year!
This was the first site that I really got to see just how HUGE the blocks of granite are that the Incas used to build their temples and cities. I don´t have the information with me just now, but some of the blocks for the temple (above middle) weigh something like 45 tons and came from a quarry over 5 kilometers away over a mountain! A few years ago, the townspeople of Ollantaytambo actually moved a block, though much smaller by placing logs underneath the block just to prove that it was actually possible to move them using non-machine generated power. It is estimated to take something like 15 people to move a 1 ton block. Just think about how many people were involved in moving them! Needless to say, I left the site impressed!
CHINCHERO
The last stop on our tour of the Sacred Valley was to Chinchero, another town with terraces, but better known for its textiles and natural dying of wool from the plants and insects in the surrounding environment. You can bet Ms. Bruck was excited about this stop!
The colorwork and detail in their weaving is pretty incredible! How much counting do you think is involved in that? I spoke with one of the ladies, and she confirmed for me that it was all about patterns, different number combinations gave different shapes, slopes of the shapes as you went from row to row, etc. 🙂
Today my plan is to do a “city tour” of some Incan ruins outside the city on my own. There is so much information that you get with a guide, but I often find myself rushed through and not getting to spend as much time exploring as I would like!
Cheers!
Ms. Bruck
Almost time to say goodbye to my homestay…and trekking in the Colca Canyon.
Today was my last day in Arequipa. I spent it being a complete tourist, taking the red hop on/ hop off bus tour around Peru`s second largest city. Yep, they have those here too. Just as in other city´s I´ve been, not all of the stops pertained to my particular interests, but it was a good way to see a lot of the city in a short amount of time. I will be sad to say goodbye to Lucy and Marcela and also, Cet and Milagros, my two Spanish teachers while I have been here. Thank you all for making me feel welcome and giving me the confidence needed to go forth with my (previously rusty) Spanish skills!
COLCA CANYON AND PRE-INCAN TERRACES:
Taking with me only what I needed and leaving most of my belongings at my homestay, I went to the nearby Colca Canyon this weekend. The Canyon is famous for its Pre-Incan terraces, 70% of which are still in use farming today, a bluff known as the “Cruz del Condor,” where one can see Condors with wingspans of up to 3 meters long soaring above you, and Peru´s second deepest canyon ( 4,160 meters, which is just how high kids….). I think that is about twice as deep as the Grand Canyon in Arizona. It was absolutely breathtaking.
You can see the terraces below still in use. If you look closely, way up high in the mountains, there are lines across the hillside…. these are Pre-Incan and Incan terraces farms no longer in use. What a crazy example of “slope.” It amazes me to think that people actually farmed on terrain that steep!
The Condors were pretty breathtaking to watch. Photos and pictures can do justice to none of this trip, but I will try to post a short video I took of the Condors in a little bit.
Our trek started up at just over 3300 meters. The altitude here is amazing! We actually drove up and over the mountains at 4900 meters (16,079 ft!) just to get to the Colca Canyon. From our starting point, we descended over 1200 meters to the valley and river below. I know from backpacking that downhill is ultimately harder on your body than uphill! Three and a half hours later, we arrived at the bottom, gratefully for some shade. Despite it being the middle of winter here and freezing as soon as the sun sets, it is warm enough to give me quite a sun burn during the day!
After reaching the bottom of the Canyon and crossing the river, which ultimately drains into the Pacific Ocean, we hiked up to a small village (50 people), where we had lunch. The hike after lunch, which meandered through the villages and followed the water irrigation system/aqueducts was my favorite part of the hike. There were a few hills, but overall, it was fairly relaxing. I wish I had taken more pictures of the acquaducts as they were quite simple yet amazing.
We arrived at the Oasis, where we would spend the night, about 40 minutes or so after dark. A piece of advice… always keep your headlamp someplace where it is easy to locate in your backpack! I never think I am going to need it at the beginning of the day when I pack my back, but it´s amazing how many times I´ve had to look for it, after it has already gotten dark!
The next morning, we woke up at 4:30am to start the 1,010 meter hike back up the hill to the village of Cabanaconde, where we would get breakfast and the bus back to Arequipa. This climb was no joke! It was strenuous enough that no less than 15 people chose to hire mules to ride back up to the top! I cannot even imagine how sore I will be after my 5 day trek to Choquequirao later in the trip, as I was plenty sore after this short, 2 day trek! It looks like Ms. Bruck needs to start hiking, backpacking, running and climbing more in general again!
People still dress very traditionally in this part of the country. I am very shy about taking photos of people, but I do have these three. Aren´t the textiles beautiful? These women are not just dressed up to sell their wares to tourists! We actually saw virtually all of the women throughout the valley dressed in the same traditional manner. It is awesome to know that at least some parts of cultures prevail once exposed to the outside world.
Ms. Bruck
Arequipa: Homestay, Spanish Lessons and Mundo del Alpaca
I´ve been in Arequipa for four days now, staying in the family home of the director of a Spanish Language school for foreigners here in Arequipa. It feels great to be in the same place for a longer length of time and great to be living with a family. I never really settled into really spending time with my host families when I lived in Spain and during my Peace Corps Training in Tanzania, but it seems to be so much easier this time around to let go of that American need to do things on their own terms and schedule. When I am not doing my four hours of language courses in the afternoon, I spend most of my time with my Señora, Lucy, and her househelper/cook, Marcela. Maybe it`s just that I have found the perfect family for me to spend time with because most of the time we spend together……. knitting. Yep, that is right. Everyone in my homestay family is obsessed with knitting. Perfect!
Yesterday, Lucy and her cousin took me to Mundo del Alpaca, which is a (more modern) store of alpaca products that also acts as a museum and export center. It was pretty awesome to see both Alpacas and LLamas, their wool after it has been shaved off, and the process that it goes through to become yarn. They also had some weavers from the Cuzco area, doing demonstrations of traditional weaving. The colors are amazing! And you know I can´t avoid talking about it….. the patterns, well, there MUST be at least a bit of math involved! Finally, we spoiled ourselves by spending almost a full hour in the stock room, where I saw where they gather wool that I see both at Michaels, and smaller independent yarn stores packed up and ready for export.
SORRY THE PICTURES SEEM TO BE OUT OF ORDER AND BIT OF A MESS! AT THIS POINT, WITH LIMITED TIME ON THE COMPUTER, I AM JUST HAPPY TO GET THEM UPLOADED!
🙂
We also went to the market in order to buy Lucy some new knitting needles, so I could show her how to make gloves. The store than sold the knitting needles is around the corner from the big market below, but it was too interesting a place not to show you. The best way I can describe it is that is was something like that big market in Tanzania, but much more organized and cleaner!
More pictures: Nazca lines, Nazca pottery and food .
Finally found an internet cafe with a bit faster connection speeds.. and I have figured out how to enter a slide show. It is all a learning experience!
Here are some of the other pictures I was going to put into the other post. Mostly examples of geometric designs being used in the Nazca pottery. I am not quite sure what I will do with them yet, but I personally find them interesting.
Also, there are pictures of food! As you can see, I have been eating really well! Lots and lots of fish though…
Currently, I am in Arequipa, doing some private classes in Spanish and staying with a homestay family. Even though, it has only been one day, it has been really nice to stay and live with people who actually live here, instead of a hostel.
More to come!
Ms. Bruck
Nazca Lines- Mystery, Archaeology and Geometry
Warning: I took many pictures, but few are uploading due to slow internet speeds. I will do my best to upload, but am trying to link to other people’s websites (and pictures and videos) in order to give you a better idea of what I am talking about until I get my own loaded.
I really like the little town of Nazca, in desert plateau on the Southern Coast of Peru. I was first interested in coming here when I came across this website five years ago when I was looking for other things to link math to. No one knows exactly why the Nazca lines were made, though there are many theories. There seems to be three main theories: they marked how to find water; they marked some type of calendar, with lines pointing in the direction of the sunset on the Winter and Summer soltices; and the animorphic shapes represent constellations in the sky.
Take a glimpse here for a quick peek at what I’m talking about.
When most people find out about the lines, they notice the animorphic shapes. Actually, the geometric shapes are MUCH larger than the animorphic shapes. Here are just a few of the things that I learned last night at a small presentation at the Maria Reiche planetarium in the Nazca Lines Hotel:
- The lines were formed by the Nazca people 100-600 A.D by removing the rocks from the desert basin, leaving just the fine dirt below exposed.
- With the exception of the Monkey, all shapes are made from one single line that never crosses itself.
- 30% of the the large geometric shapes (triangles, trapezoids, and rectangles) are known to point to the source of water, an extremely valuable resource in the desert.
- The lines that point to the sources of water are actually perpendicular to the Rio Grande.
- Other sets of lines are perfectly parallel sources that come down from the mountains.
- The lines reach up to 480 meters long in some cases.
- It is believed that at times Nazca gather on the lines for ceremonies and at other times, they would walk and follow the lines until it lead them to sources of water.
I took at flight over the lines this morning and it was pretty spectacular! Unfortunately, my video did not turn out amazing, but I tried to share what I have with you in the posts above. I hope it works!
Ms. Bruck
Quipus, walkabouts and food…
My hostel is an old mansion in the old part of Lima, right across from a big church. I woke up to rain, and when I stepped outside my room door, peacocks and turtles! That´s right. I guess I forgot to mention that most of the rooms on the highest floor of the hostel open up onto a rooftop deck that´s really quite beautiful. It´s full of plants and the morning critters I mentioned above.
I spent most of today at the History and Archeology Musem gaining some background knowledge about Peru, the Nazcas and Incas before I would eventually continue on to places around the country that these cultures are known for.
This was really cool to see. What was even more exciting was being able to go to the library there at the museum, explain that I wanted to learn more about Quipus (How were they used? Could I learn how to read one?) and be allowed to check out book there at the library to learn more about them and take notes.
The images below (from one of the books- you are allowed to take photographs, but with the flash) helps to explain how to “read” a single cord:
It was so neat to be able to go into the archeological library in another country to be able to look something up that I was interested in and be able to understand it better!
I looked at three books while in the library. The first two were the newest books, published as recently as 2005. Both were in Spanish. It was a pretty awesome feeling to know that my Spanish is already good enough to be able to follow technical text (which I somehow think to be a bit easier than conversational text as there are many many cognates to help one along). The third book was written in English and publish in 1927, nearer to when the Quipus were first discovered. It was interesting as many of the conclusions drawn in the earlier book, written by an American were in direct contradiction to current thinking, written by Peruvians. I think that Ill take the more current text. The earlier book stated that there were no mathematical function to the Quipus and that the different colored cords had no special meaning. Current thinking is that in addition to record keeping, the Quipus could be used to perform calculations, much like an abacus. There were also examples of different colored cords having meaning for things such as soldiers (red), gold (yellow), silver (white), and corn.
Food: Being as this first post is already incredibly long and pictures are taking quite some time to upload, the only thing that I am going to say is that I am not starving as many who worried about the fact that I do not eat meat thought I might do. 🙂 I even came across a purely vegetarian restaurant near my hotel this evening.
Cheers!
Ms. Bruck
Why is Ms. Bruck in Peru?
Basically, I wrote a grant. I have been so fortunate to find many opportunities to travel in my life, almost non of which I have had to pay for directly. Ever since a family friend shared with me pictures of their travels to Peru, and Machu Picchu in particular, when I was in high school, I have been determined to find an opportunity to go and explore Peru myself. This past January, when I came across the application for Fund for Teachers, a grant that gives teachers the opportunity to explore and partake in learning experiences during the summer break, I knew it was a chance to fulfill my dream of going to Peru.
As a part of the grant, I am exploring several topics and questions to later be incorporated into my classroom and teaching in the fall. To give you just a taste of the grant writing process and what to expect from my blog in the next month or so, here are the guiding questions I proposed I would explore while I am in Peru:
- Would the Incas have been as well known without their mathematical and engineering accomplishments?
- What are the implications of strong foundations in mathematical thinking for any society’s accomplishments?
- How is it possible for a culture to dominate as the Incan Empire did without a written language and only a mathematical system?
- What does geometry have to do with the integrity of the structural engineering of the Machu Picchu?
- What are the geometric patterns of the Nazca lines? Are these drawings really mathematical?
- What is the geometry of the patterns found in Peruvian textiles?
- In present times, is there a connection between the patterns of the Nazca lines and those patterns found in the textiles of the Peruvian Highlands?
- What are the economic implications of the tourist industry in regards to Machu Picchu, textiles, and artisan craft products?
That’s a lot questions! And I only know that I will come up with more as I gain new experiences.
FOR MY STUDENTS: What are some of questions that come to mind for you after what you have read thus far? What else would you like me to learn about for you?