Revised: Puno, Lake Titicaca, Uros, Amantani and Taquille Islands
My last post did not do justice to the experiences I had, so now that I am in Cuzco, with faster internet speeds, I can take the time properly present my last post.
Puno is the second most touristed city in Peru, after Cuzco. The interesting thing is that most people (including myself) do not actually spend that much time in the city of Puno itself, but rather, use it as a launching pad to visit the islands on Lake Titicaca, the highest navigable lake in the world (3840 meters). The entire Puno/Lake Titicaca area is FREEZING right now as well. I finally had a reason to take out my down jacket!
So after spending a chilly night in Puno, I got on a local boat to head out to the islands. They have organized tours available to all of the islands, especially the floating islands of Uros (which are made out of reeds and really are floating), but I had heard negative things about these tours and opted to figure it out on my own and force myself to use my newly revised Spanish. I am so glad that I did as I got to see so much more than I would have if I had had to stick next to a tour guide and stay on their timetable and explore what THEY thought was interesting, instead of what I thought was interesting. It was an awesome experience!
THE FLOATING ISLANDS OF UROS:
]The first stop that the boat made was to the floating islands of Uros. Interesting enough, the 40 minute stop was more than enough time to learn about them and move on.
HOMESTAY ON THE ISLAND OF AMANTANI
After the floating islands, we hopped back on the same boat to head to the island of Amantani for the night. The island has a system of tourism in which the 4,000 inhabitants (made of up 95 different communities) share homestays of foreigners according to a system that ensures no family has a guest more than once a month. The islanders live on subsistence farming, namely 40 different varieties of potatoes.
The homestays are the only time the people of Amantani actually earn money, with everything else on the island obtained through trade.
The women on the island of Amantani knit beautiful hats, while it is the men who sew and embroider the clothes the women wear.
Before dinner with the 6 french speaking travelers I became friends with, we climbed to the top of the island to see the sunset.
INDEPENDENCE DAY ON THE ISLAND OF TAQUILLE
The next morning, we got up and onto another boat to head to the island of Taquille.
Taquille is interesting. On this island, the men are known more for their knitting than the women. The men wear red or red/white hats that they knit themselves in order to indicate their “married” or “single” status.
The women weave intricate belts that they give their husbands. The women also spin wool. The island centers around the plaza de armas, where they sell amazing textiles.
CULTURE OF KNITTING AND WEAVING ON THE ISLANDS OF LAKE TITICACA
The belts in particular have very interesting design, many of which are geometric.
I spent quite a bit of time sitting with the man who sold me the belt afterwards. He seemed genuinely excited that someone wanted to know what they symbols actually meant to the culture and people of Taquille. It was definitely a highlight of the journey so far!
We spent the rest of the day exploring the island and hiking. It was so beautiful!
EXCHANGE OF IDEAS AND TECHNIQUES
The next day, we took a boat back to Puno. Doing as I always do when travelling, I took out my knitting. This caused quite a bit of excitement! The technique the men of Taquille use is completely different thanwhat I use. It was lots of fun, showing each other not only how we knit (Me: holding the wool in my right hand. Them: twisting the wool around their neck and knitting from the opposite side of the fabric), but also what we knit. I was working on a pair of socks, which was really interesting to them. The designs and color work in their hats is so intricate, I can hardly hope to learn how to do it!
Overall, the three days I spent on the islands were absolutely amazing and I learned to much! Truly, the perfect place for me to go!
More from Cuzco later!
Ms. Bruck
The colors are wonderful there and the people all seen to be so lovely.
August 5, 2011 at 1:48 pm
Hi there,
I happened to come upon your blog and find your experiences with Taquile very interesting, as I spend about 5 months in Puno and on Taquile doing a project about sustainable tourism. I is so nice to read/see that you enjoyed visiting Taquile and the taquileans. It takes a curious person to be more than a tourist!
The story I got about the ‘rose of 6 petals’ is that it symbolises the agricultural rotation system on the island (many things on Taquile are organised in rotation systems). Most of the symbols contain some small symbols in 3 of the 6 petals. This means that if they have e.g. 6 fields, one will have potato, another corn, and another maybe quinoa, the other three will lay fallow – and the following year crops will rotate on the fields, so as to not over exploit the soil. The island has 6 suyos as well, and maybe originally one crop was grown in each suyo each year – but it’s not like that anymore – neither is the laying fallow really, as increases in population (and hungry mouths to feed) has made this system difficult to follow.
If you are interested in knowing more about the taquileans I can recommend visiting their own website (they have started their own tourist agency to regain the control of tourism on Taquile). The address is: http://www.taquile.net
I hope you will enjoy the rest of Peru!
Best regards, Maria from Denmark
August 5, 2011 at 7:40 pm
Thank you so much for your comment… it really cleared up my confusion and gave me more interesting information! I will get on the website you suggested to find out more. Thanks again!
Ms.Bruck
August 9, 2011 at 2:43 pm